Bachmann 'Peak': Final Assembly

Lubricate the teeth of all gears in the drive train using a suitable grease. Lubricate the worm shaft bearings with a light oil.

Drive Unit fitted to axles Assuming that you have the wheelsets and springs already fitted in to the Subframe, rest the subframe on your narrow wheeling block. Orientate the Drive Unit correctly over the outer and centre axles. Carefully align the Bachmann bearings on each axle and, one axle at a time, clip the drive unit into place on the axles.

Note that the photos here show the worm drive fitted; you might wish to leave it off for now to do the further rolling test suggested below.

In any subsequent dismantling and reassembly, we recommend that you keep the wheelsets clipped in to the Drive Unit and remove them together from the Subframe by unclipping the springs. Reassembly follows a similar procedure to that followed earlier in the Bogie Assembly section, but with the wheelsets now clipped into the Drive Unit.

Drive unit clearances from above Check clearances around the drive unit, and for free-running of the gears.

Refit the Bolster to the Subframe, again checking clearances.

Repeat the above for the other bogie.

You now have the option of re-assembling the bogies into the loco and doing some unpowered testing to check for free running of the gears. Bear in mind that the components are not yet run-in in their current configuration: any slight imperfections might be eased out by a few minutes under power.

With the bogies once more out of the loco, separate the Subframes from the Bolsters.

Fit the worm shafts and their bearings, with a smear of grease on the worm itself and some light oil in the bearings. Fit the Worm Bearing Retainer etches.

Undo the screws retaining the Pivot Frames to the Bolsters, and reassemble them with a thread locker applied to the screws, to prevent them working loose in service.

Special thread locking compounds can be bought. Nail varnish, or paint, will also do the job.

Refit the Bolsters on to the Subframes.

Clip the drive shafts - the ends with the rounded pins - into the sockets on the worm shafts.

Offer up each bogie into the aperture at its end of the loco. Engage the free end of the cardan shaft into the loco's flywheel drive socket and line up the Pivot Frame fixing hole with the hole in the chassis block. Fit the bogie retaining screw - some thread locker is probably a good idea.

Place the locomotive on some track and give it a test run under power.

Run the locomotive in, gently at first. If the loco does not run freely or begins to bind up at any point, pay particular attention to lubrication of the axle bearings. You can feel for any binding by rotating the wheel rims with the fingers - there is enough slack in the drive train gears that you should be able to distinguish between a binding and a free wheelset.

Finally, replace the body of the locomotive.

All being well, thats it! - the modifications are complete and you have a(nother) sprung diesel loco.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you need to remove the body subsequently, please DO NOT at any stage attempt to pull the chassis from the loco by pulling on the bogies, as this may damage the spring mountings.