Bachmann 66: Cosmetic Sideframes

This section deals with fitting the moulded cosmetic frames and brake detail to the etched bogies. You can leave it until after the 'Pickups and Power' and 'Final Assembly' sections if you wish.

Bogie frame unmodified Return to the plastic moulded cosmetic bogie frames.

Remove the tension lock couplings.

Removing undertray Cut through the two vertical pillars at each end of the undertray.

Cut through the two outriggers on each side of the undertray, between the brake detail and the inner faces of the detail moulding.

File down the remaining outrigger stubs to 0.3 - 0.5mm, and remove any other projections from the inside faces of the detail moulding.

Put the undertrays safely to one side for later.

Inner frame fit Tidy up the inner…

Outer frame fit …and outer ends of the moulded frame to fit over the etched Subframe and to engage in the slots at the inner end of the Subframe. If it is a tight fit for length over the outward projecting ends of the etched Subframe, file a little off them to get a free fit, to avoid distorting the Subframe.

Outer cross member profile Carefully reduce the section of the outer cross member of the moulded frame to give clearance for the wheels to be inserted vertically from above.

Fettle the plastic cross pieces at the inner end of the frames, and the top edges of the outer extensions of the etched subframe sides, to get the plastic frames to sit level on the etched Subframe, with their wheel hubs aligned vertically and horizontally with the axle centres. (For vertical alignment, the tops of the etched bearing carriers should be level with the top edges of the Subframes).

Check Drive Unit fit Check that there is clearance between the inner ends of the Drive Units and the plastic frames. Thin the ends of the Drive Units further, if required. (If the Drive Units are not already in place, rest them in position on top of their axle bearings).

Remove the wheelsets, Drive Units and frame mouldings from the Subframes.

Subframe Outriggers Remove the Inner Outrigger (S3, right of photo) and Outer Outrigger (S4, left of photo) etches from the fret.

Making main fold Make the main fold in each outrigger.

Main fold Check the fold is at 90° and reinforce it with solder.

Outer brake bracket fold Make the outer fold in the brake detail support; note that the fold is not exactly perpendicular to the sides of the etch.

Brake bracket inner fold Make the inner fold in the brake detail support.

Locating tabs Fold in the two locating tabs at the inside end of each outrigger.

Completed Outriggers Completed Inner and Outer Outriggers.

Taking the Subframes, fit the Outriggers to the Longitudinal Restraints, fettling either or both as necessary, but being careful not to disturb the alignment of the restraints.

Soldering Outriggers Having first fluxed the mating surfaces, arrange clamps and supports to hold the Outriggers in position against the Subframes, ensuring that the inside edge of each outrigger is tight up against the side of the Subframe, and solder the outriggers in place. Avoid getting any solder on the surfaces of the Restraints on which the Bolsters slide.

Outrigger and Restraint alignment Check that the locating tabs of the Outriggers are inside the line of the outer edges of the Lateral Restraints. If they are not, check that the Outrigger is firmly up against the Subframe side, resolder it if not. File away the tabs if still necessary.

You've now completed the assembly of the visible brass parts for the kit, so this is the time to chemically blacken them if you wish.

Brake detail on undertray Returning to the moulded undertrays, use a file to mark the inside faces of the cylindrical mouldings joining the brake shoes.

Outriggers Take the flitchings and mountings, on each outrigger, down flush with the top surface of the outrigger.

Remove the brake detail moulding from each outrigger, preserving what remains of the square mounting spigot which passes through the outrigger. Cutting the outrigger away, close to the spigot, on one or two sides is usually sufficient to separate them.

Modified brake details File down the inside faces of the cylindrical mouldings flush to the inside faces of the rectangular parts emerging from the ends of each cylinder.

Trim 0.5mm off the rear edges of the outward facing brake shoes on each moulding (note that the mouldings with two brake shoes are sitting back-to-front in this photo).

Refit the Wheelsets (and Drive Units if assembled with them).

Glue the brake details in place on the subframe outriggers, aligning and positioning them with respect to the wheelsets. Note that the details are angled to allow more lateral movement of the centre axles. The height of each detail should be set by the top of its square mounting spigot against the underside of the bracket off the etched outrigger.

Rear framing modified Cut out sections of the rear plastic framing as shown, leaving enough to engage in the slots in the Subframe sides. This is to give access to the body mounting screws.

Refit the plastic bogie frames to the Subframes, springing them outwards over the outriggers and sliding them downwards until the stubs of their original outriggers engage in the slots in the etched outriggers. Do not glue them in place as yet (this can be done later when the loco is finally assembled, to get a precise alignment).