Bachmann LMS 10000/1: Cosmetic Bogie Frames

Unmodified bogie frame moulding This section deals with fitting the moulded plastic bogie frames and brake detail to the etched brass subframes.

Part of the process is a re-visit of the checks of ride height, to judge the distance between the bogie frames and the lower bodyside of the loco, and to check the vertical alignment of the moulded bearing detail with the axle centres.

Comparison of etched and moulded 2ndary hanger positions The kit includes cosmetic profiled representations of the secondary suspension hangers (Secondary Detail, parts 10). They allow the hanger detail to be moved inboard, markedly improving the appearance of the bogie when viewed side-on from above.

Secondary spring hanger detail Remove the Secondary Detail (10) etches from the fret.

Bending hanger detail The details with the protrusion on one side fit the outriggers towards the outer (two-dot) ends of the Subframes.

With the face showing the half-etch fold line facing downwards, make two folds in each protrusion, at the points indicated by the small white arrows in the photo, to crank them upwards about 2mm (they represent part of the brake linkage which passes inside of the suspension hangers).

Make the fold on the fold line in the corner of each etch.

Sliding hanger detail along outrigger Fit the detail etches into place by sliding them in from the ends of the outriggers,…

Hanger detail engaged in outrigger …with the slots within their folds then making halving joints with the slots in the outriggers.

Cranked hanger details The distance over the two cranked parts of the brake detail should come to around 22.8mm overall.

If you wish to chemically blacken the brass Bolster and Subframe assemblies, you may wish to consider doing it now, before fitting the plastic bogie details.

Polish the blackening away from either side of the axle slots, in the area over which the bearing carriers will slide.

Pushing out brake detail spigots Take the bogie frame moulding, support it firmly, upside down, and, with a 0.5mm punch, carefully push out the four studs (they may be glued in place) which retain the brake detail on each side.

A 0.5mm drill, held blind-end out in a pin chuck, makes a suitable punch.

Pushing out inner end brake locating spigots Also press out the two retaining studs securing the brake moulding to the inner bogie transom.

Releasing brake cross rods Ease apart the brake mouldings on each side to separate the cross-rods at one end or the other.

The second-best vernier proved useful again here.

Unthread the brake gear mouldings from the bogie frame.

Remove the tension lock coupling from the NEM socket: squeeze its tails together and pull it from the socket.

Plastic outrigger cut Cut through the four outrigger parts of the moulding which join the undertray to the sides. Make the cuts parallel with the sides and positioned such that the holes for the brake detail spigots are just kept entire.

End pillars cut Cut through the two vertical square pillars at each end of the undertray, thus separating the undertray from the rest of the moulding. Discard the undertray.

Clean up any flash, lumps or bumps from the inside of the sideframes.

Brake mounting holes opened out Using a drill as both drill and file, open out sideways the mounting holes for the brake detail spigots, as close as possible to the insides of the sideframes. These will allow the brake rigging to be refitted to a wider spacing to accommodate P4 or EM wheels.

Inner end spigot retainers opened outwards On the inner bogie cross members, open out the outer edges of the rectangular retaining pockets for the spigots at the ends of the brake detail mouldings, again to allow them to be more widely spaced.

Brake yoke modification Trim off the locating slot on each end of the brake yoke at the inner end of the bogie.

Secondary hangers: modified moulding If you have fitted the Secondary Detail etches (10) to the Subframes, remove the secondary spring hanger detail from around the leaf springs.

The photo shows the modified detail to the left, unmodified to the right.

Remnant secondary hanger moulding If you cut the detail away carefully,…

Piercing saw cut lines …a piercing saw, following the cut lines shown, can be used to remove the detail in one piece,…

Secondary detail …it can be glued on to the Secondary Detail etches to add relief to them.

Fit the Bogie Frame moulding to its etched subframe:

It is a good idea, at this stage, to put the bogies and wheelsets back together in the loco to repeat the static and rolling tests to check the height and alignment of the bogie frames with respect to the wheelsets and the loco body. You can fit small rectangles of plastic card under the end mouldings of the frames, where they sit on the subframe stretchers, to adjust the frame height, if required.

Glue the moulded bogie frames securely into the brass Subframes.

Take the brake detail mouldings, and remove any projecting detail on their outside faces which will be obscured by the sideframes, to allow them to be refitted closely and flush up against the insides of the sideframes.

Part of brake detail to be removed Cut the extraneous tails from the brake hangers for the outer shoes of the centre axles - the shaded part (arrowed) in the photo - where replaced by the protruding part of the Secondary Detail etches (10).

Refit the brake detail, threading the cross rods around the brass frames and reconnecting them to the mouldings. Glue securely in place, using the wheelsets to check clearances.

You might need to remove the linkage between the hangers either side of the centre axle, to allow sideplay, and take a little off the inside corners of the mouldings, here and there, if they touch the wheels. This is perhaps best done after the details have been refitted and the glue has set.