This section deals with fitting the moulded plastic bogie frames and brake detail to the etched brass
subframes.
Part of the process is a re-visit of the checks of ride height, to judge the distance between the
bogie frames and the lower bodyside of the loco, and to check the vertical alignment of the moulded
bearing detail with the axle centres.
The kit includes cosmetic profiled representations of the secondary suspension hangers (Secondary Detail,
parts 10). They allow the hanger detail to be moved inboard, markedly improving the appearance of the
bogie when viewed side-on from above.
Remove the Secondary Detail (10) etches from the fret.
The details with the protrusion on one side fit the outriggers towards the outer (two-dot) ends of
the Subframes.
With the face showing the half-etch fold line facing downwards,
make two folds in each protrusion, at the points indicated by the small white arrows in the photo,
to crank them upwards about 2mm (they represent part of the brake linkage
which passes inside of the
suspension hangers).
Make the fold on the fold line in the corner of each etch.
Fit the detail etches into place by sliding them in from the ends of the outriggers,…
…with the slots within
their folds then making halving joints with the slots in the outriggers.
The distance over the two cranked parts of the brake detail should come to around 22.8mm overall.
If you wish to chemically blacken the brass Bolster and Subframe assemblies, you may wish to consider doing it
now, before fitting the plastic bogie details.
Polish the blackening away from either side of the axle slots, in the area over which the bearing
carriers will slide.
Take the bogie frame moulding, support it firmly, upside down, and, with a 0.5mm punch,
carefully push out the four studs (they may be glued in place) which retain the brake detail on each side.
A 0.5mm drill, held blind-end out in a pin chuck, makes a suitable punch.
Also press out the two retaining studs securing the brake moulding to the inner bogie transom.
Ease apart the brake mouldings on each side to separate the cross-rods at one end or the other.
The second-best vernier proved useful again here.
Unthread the brake gear mouldings from the bogie frame.
Remove the tension lock coupling from the NEM socket: squeeze its tails together and pull it from the socket.
Cut through the four outrigger parts of the moulding which join the undertray to the sides. Make the cuts
parallel with the sides and positioned
such that the holes for the brake detail spigots are just kept entire.
Cut through the two vertical square pillars at each end of the undertray, thus separating the undertray
from the rest of the moulding. Discard the undertray.
Clean up any flash, lumps or bumps from the inside of the sideframes.
Using a drill as both drill and file, open out sideways the mounting holes for the brake detail spigots,
as close as possible to the insides
of the
sideframes. These will allow the brake rigging to be refitted to a wider spacing to accommodate P4 or EM
wheels.
On the inner bogie cross members, open out the outer edges of the rectangular retaining pockets for the
spigots at the ends of the brake detail mouldings, again to allow them to be more widely spaced.
Trim off the locating slot on each end of the brake yoke at the inner end of the bogie.
If you have fitted the Secondary Detail etches (10) to the Subframes, remove the secondary spring hanger
detail from around the leaf springs.
The photo shows the modified detail to the left, unmodified to the right.
If you cut the detail away carefully,…
…a piercing saw, following the cut lines shown, can be used to remove the detail in one piece,…
…it can be glued on to the Secondary Detail etches to add relief to them.
Fit the Bogie Frame moulding to its etched subframe:
make sure it is facing the correct way: the outer (coupling) end goes to the 'two-dot' end of the subframe,
the square-sectioned mouldings at either end of the frame engage in the slots in the subframe stretchers.
You will find that the slots in the inner subframe stretcher will need enlarging sideways, slightly, towards
the centre line, to clear the rounded mounting spigots for the brake yoke moulding.
to get the end mouldings to sit down on the bases of the slots in the subframe stretchers, you may find it
necessary to shave some material off the undersides of the remaining parts of the plastic outriggers, where
these rest on the etched outriggers of the subframe.
It is a good idea, at this stage, to put the bogies and wheelsets back together in the loco to repeat the static and rolling tests to check the height and alignment of the bogie frames with respect to the wheelsets and the loco body. You can fit small rectangles of plastic card under the end mouldings of the frames, where they sit on the subframe stretchers, to adjust the frame height, if required.
Glue the moulded bogie frames securely into the brass Subframes.
Take the brake detail mouldings, and remove any projecting detail on their outside faces which will be obscured by the sideframes, to allow them to be refitted closely and flush up against the insides of the sideframes.
Cut the extraneous tails from the brake hangers for the outer shoes of the centre axles - the shaded part (arrowed)
in the photo - where replaced by the protruding part of the Secondary Detail etches (10).
Refit the brake detail, threading the cross rods around the brass frames and reconnecting them
to the mouldings. Glue securely in place, using the wheelsets to check clearances.
You might need to remove
the linkage between the hangers either side of the centre axle, to allow sideplay, and take a little off the inside corners
of the mouldings, here and there, if they touch the wheels. This is perhaps best done
after the details have been refitted and the glue has set.