Lubricate the teeth of all gears in the drive train using a suitable grease. Lubricate the worm shaft bearings with a light oil.
Fit the wheelsets to the drive unit, ensuring that they are fitted in the correct locations and the correct
way round, as indicated by the id marks on the bearing carriers. If you are using 'stub-axle' wheelsets, take
care not to distort the alignment of the axles and gear muff: it is
probably advisable to press directly on the bearings when clipping them in to the drive unit.
If you already have the three axles and their springs together from the previous assembly, try to retain that as far as possible to avoid having to refit the springs (allowing you to skip over the following few instructions).
Using a pair of tweezers to handle the springs, and a small screwdriver to manipulate the bearing carriers,
thread one of the primary springs through the hole in the ear of the central bearing carrier facing the outer
axle.
Thread the spring through the slots in the ears of the bearing carrier of the outer axle.
Thread a second spring through the hole in the other ear of the central bearing carrier.
Thread that spring through the slots in the ears of the bearing carrier of the inner axle.
Similarly fit the two springs on the other side of the bogie.
Take the subframe which goes with the drive unit and place it on the narrow block for wheeling.
Slot the drive unit into the subframe with the primary springs resting on the tops of their
spring seats. Ensure that the bearing carriers are correctly engaged in the slots in
the subframe, and that the drive unit is facing the right way (worm end towards the coupling end
of the bogie).
Use a screwdriver to spring the springs outwards and downwards on to the outer faces of their seats.
Push the springs downwards so that they slide over the seats, until they clip into place under the seats.
Now take the bolster for that subframe, make sure it is facing the right way, and slide it into place in
the subframe, until the secondary spring wires are resting on their seats.
Pushing down gently on the bolster, use a small screwdriver to bend each spring slightly outwards so that
it slides down the outer face of its spring seat and snaps into the slot in the seat.
If the plastic pivot yoke is not firmly held between the two ribs of the Bolster, secure it with some epoxy glue.
Find the cardan shaft and clip the correct end into the drive socket of the bogie.
Offer up the bogie into the aperture at its end of the loco. Engage the free end of the cardan shaft into the loco's flywheel drive socket and line up the bogie top pivot with its pivot hole.
Fit the bogie retaining screw. Be careful not to overload the suspension: support the bogie subframe on the
wheeling block, and apply the minimum possible downward force on the screw.
You can fit one of the Pivot Washers (13) under the screw: it slightly reduces
the amount by which the bogie drops away from the loco when you pick it up, but does not affect the functioning
of the suspension.
Repeat all of the above for the other bogie.
Place the locomotive on some track and give it a test run under power.
Run the locomotive in gently at first. If the loco does not run freely or begins to bind up at any point, pay particular attention to lubrication of the axle bearings. You can feel for any binding by rotating the wheel rims with the fingers - there is enough slack in the drive train gears that you should be able to distinguish between a binding and a free wheelset.
Finally, replace the body of the locomotive.
All being well, thats it! - the modifications are complete and you have a(nother) sprung diesel loco.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you need to remove the body subsequently, please DO NOT at any stage attempt to pull the chassis from the loco by pulling on the bogies, as this may damage the spring mountings.