Class 47 Brake Detail

Brake Etches These instructions are for kits with the etched brake components etch F005. They describe the assembly of the brake gear for one half-side of a bogie; there are eight such assemblies in all, four of each hand.

Class 47 Brake Gear Schematic

Drill ringed holes 0.35mm Using a 0.35mm drill in a hand pin-vice, drill through the holes in the etch as indicated by the red rings in the drawing.

To help prevent distortion, press the components against a hard surface with a fine screwdriver while drilling.

Tin the highlighted areas (1) There is fine detail in the etch which can easily become obscured by solder. It is perhaps as well to tin all components with a thin film of solder now, to avoid bringing excess solder on the iron to the components when assembling.

Tin the highlighted areas (2) Tin the areas shown shaded green. Run through the holes with the drill again after tinning.

Crank detail Place the fret on to a hard working surface such that the tags, holding the nut and crank detail to the plank joining the centre and intermediate brake levers, are with their backs flush to the surface.

Take a length of the 0.3mm wire and apply some paste flux to its end 2mm or so. Insert the wire into the hole in one of the nuts (a spare is provided in case of losses). Working against the hard surface, and keeping the end of the wire inside the hole, cut the nut from its tag, as closely to the side of the nut and as cleanly as you can.

The paste flux should retain the nut on the wire while you now lift the nut onto the crank detail and push the wire into the hole in the crank. Cut the crank from its tag, again using the wire to retain control of it.

Now lift the nut and crank detail, still retained on the wire by the paste flux, onto the bracket extending downwards from the plank, and locate the end of the wire into the hole in the bracket. Slide the crank detail and nut down the wire so that all three components are flush to each other, rotate the crank around the wire until its flat edge is parallel with the long edges of the plank, and solder up.

Crank detail finished Trim and clean up the ends of the wire; flush to the back of the bracket, and with a little protruding from the front of the nut to represent the end of the crank pivot bolt.

Fret inverted Invert the fret and support it between two blocks, or over a recess, to accommodate the crank detail now on the reverse side.

Folding over shoe details Make the 180° folds in the tags to turn the three brake shoe detail etches over on to their backing plates. Apply some flux, hold the folds shut and sweat the shoe components together, perhaps with just a tiny amount of extra solder applied to the curved face of each shoe.

Use knife blades or small screwdrivers to define the centres of the 180° folds and to drive each one over.

End lever lower bosses Fold over, 180°, and solder up the boss at the lower end of the outer brake lever.

Fold over, 180°, and solder up the boss towards the outer end of the pull rod.

Intermediate lever lower bosses Fold over, 180° the boss at the lower end of the intermediate brake lever. Pass a length of 0.3mm wire through the hole in the boss, using the wire to align the two parts. Solder in the wire. Finish it flush with the rear of the boss, and projecting about 1mm from the front.

Fold over, 180°, the boss at the inner end of the pull rod. Do NOT solder here at this stage.

Components removed from fret Remove the three detail etches from the fret and clean off remnants of the etched tags. The folding tags on the brake shoes are best left for now, as they prevent the shoe details from coming adrift during subsequent soldering operations.

First detail fold Taking the intermediate/central brake shoes etch, make the two innermost folds on the plank joining the two brake hangers and reinforce them with a small amount of solder, taking care not to fill the adjacent fold lines.

Using a file, smooth the lower inside edge of the plank, leaving it with a slight chamfer. This is to guard against any possibility of the secondary spring detail, fitted to the bolster, 'picking up' on that edge.

Second detail fold Make the two remaining folds in the plank to turn it back on itself, and reinforce them with solder also.

Completed centre detail etch This is how the inside of the intermediate/central brake shoes etch looks when folding is complete. All the detail features are now facing outwards, the same way.

Centre detail fixed Taking one of the bogie subframe assemblies, make the folds at the ends of each of the subframe's outriggers.

Make the slotted halving joint between the intermediate/central brake shoes etch and the top of one of the two outriggers which match the handing of the etch. Support the etch in the correct position, with a lump of 'Blu-tak' perhaps, and solder up the joint.

Fixing end brake detail Similarly locate and fix the outer brake shoe detail in the slot in the inside edge of the bogie subframe end stretcher.

Remove the folded-over tags from the ends of the brake shoe details.

Test fit the wheelsets to check that there is sufficient clearance between the brake shoes and the wheels over the operating range of the suspension (the design static position of the wheelsets is with the tops of the bearing carrier ears level with the top of the subframe sides, with dynamic deflections of ±0.5mm service, ±0.75mm max, from there).

Small adjustments can be made by judicious filing or bending of the detail parts. If you find that you need to adjust the outriggers, remember to check that the fit of the Bolster, between the outriggers, is maintained.

Pull rod in position Thread the plain end of the pull rod over the wire at the base of the intermediate brake shoe hanger.

Line up the boss, on the inside of the other end of the rod, with that at the base of the outer brake shoe hanger and solder them together.

Solder inner end of pull rod Solder up the plain end of the rod to the intermediate hanger and trim off the ends of the wire flush.

Inner pull rod, first fold At the outer end of the pull rod, make the first fold between the inner pull rod end detail and its support, and reinforce the fold with a touch of solder.

Inner pull rod in position Make the fold at the other end of the support to swing the inner pull rod up into position. Reinforce the fold with a touch of solder…

Finished …and that's it… finished.

And the rest... Repeat for the remaining sets of brake gear. You may wish to take a well-deserved break first!

To complete the detailing, you may wish to glue in place a suitable representation of the actuator between the inner and outer pull rods – the moulding from discarded Bachmann brake gear does nicely, otherwise small pieces of plastic strip and rod, brought together with some filler, can do the job.

Finally, reassemble the wheelsets and bogie bolsters into the subframes, and check all clearances.