Bachmann Class 24/25 Cosmetic Bogie Frames

Bachmann bogie frame moulding This section deals with removing the side frames and brake gear from the Bachmann bogie mouldings, and fitting them to the etched bogie subframe.

Cosmetic frame cuts Three pairs of cuts are made to separate the sideframes from the moulding.

Outer stretcher cuts The first pair of vertical cuts is made through the outer stretchers, immediately inboard of the guard iron details.

Inner stretcher cuts The second pair of cuts is made through the inner stretchers. The outer faces of the cuts are spaced 14.2mm apart, symmetrically about the centre line.

Central cuts The third pair of cuts is made vertically through the centre stretcher mouldings, immediately inboard of the brake details, to expose the mounting spigots of the brake pull rods.

Removing brake detail Crack the glued joints between the exposed pull-rod spigots and the main moulding. Holding firmly the brake shoe detail, with smooth-jawed pliers, carefully twist the brake shoes to crack the adhesive bond between the mounting spigots above the shoes and the main moulding. The brake detail mouldings may then be swung inwards as shown, and removed from their spigot sockets in the end stretchers, without disturbing the sand pipe details.

Cleaned up central cut Remove the remnants of the central stretcher moulding from the inside faces of the sideframes.

Clearance notch Make a notch on the inside of the moulded equalizing beam, to provide clearance for the secondary spring retaining hook on the bolster.

Outer stretcher cutaway On the outer stretcher, cut away the material above the top flange of the moulded detail.

Inner stretcher cutaway On the inner stretcher, cut a notch into the top of the stretcher down to the level of the top of the bogie sideframe, as shown.

Primary spring retaining notch Cut a small notch onto the inside face of the stub of the inner stretcher, as shown. This is to accommodate the vertical upstand at the inner end of the primary spring wire. When in position, the sideframe then retains the spring wire.

Removing moulded bolster end detail If you are fitting the optional bolster end detail, you will need to remove the original moulded detail from the sideframes. Cut out the material indicated here, down flush to the top of the bogie frame. Being very careful, you will be able to keep intact the vertical faces of the mouldings to either side.

Fit of sideframes to bogie etch Check the fit of the inner and outer stretcher stubs into the channels formed by the outriggers of the stretchers on the etched bogie frame. The sideframes slot into place in this sequence:

  1. at the outer stretcher, the stiffening flange at the rear of the guard iron detail engages in the notch in the lower flange of the outrigger, and the moulded stretcher stub fits in between the lower and upper flanges of the outrigger,
  2. at the inner stretcher, the moulded stretcher stub then slides in to the channel formed by the etched outrigger, locating the sideframe and forming a retainer for the primary spring wire. There should be sufficient resistance in this fit that the sideframe is reasonably securely held in place. For additional robustness, a spot of adhesive might be used or, alternatively, some kind of fixing. A fixing hole is etched in the outrigger. A spare inner stretcher, included on the fret, can be folded up and used as a drilling guide to make a matching hole in the stretcher stub.

Modified brake detail Truncate the brake pull rods to remove their inner mounting spigots.

Brake detail refitted, sideframe complete Refit the brake detail. 'Plastic Weld' works moderately well as an adhesive. Note that the detail 'stands off' slightly from the lower face of the stretchers when the spigots are pushed home. The lower flanges of the etched outriggers are designed to fit in to this gap.

Sideframes fitted to etched bogie Test-fit the sideframes and check clearances.

The top 0.5mm of the vertical upstands of the steps can be removed, to give clearance under the solebars of the loco. There is no need to do this, however, if you intend to remove the solebars as part of your detailing project.