Heljan Class 35: Cosmetic Bogie Detail

This section deals with fitting the side frames to the etched bogie subframe, adding the etched representations of brake gear if desired. You will possibly be keen to get the loco running, so the final fit of the sideframes and of the brake gear can be postponed to the very end of the build, if you wish. However, it is probably as well to do the first fit of the sideframes and alignment of the outriggers as part of the unpowered testing.

Unplug the four sideframe mouldings from the drive units. Mark the rear faces of the two from the bogie having the triangular symbol, so that their locations on the loco are uniquely identified.

Shortened turrets on sideframe Shorten the two mounting turrets on each sideframe to 3.5mm.

Thinned pullrod mouldings File away the thickened pull rods at the ends of each sideframe moulding until they have virtually no thickness.

Mount the sideframes on the bogies, engaging their turrets on to the etched outriggers. Make final adjustments to the length of the turrets so that the inside faces of the sideframes sit flush against the faces of the bogie stretcher ends when the turrets are pushed fully home on the outriggers (taking the opportunity to correct any bowing of the mouldings).

Check the alignment of the top edges of the sideframes with the base of the chassis block. This can be adjusted by firmly, but carefully, twisting the outriggers up or down, with small pliers.

File a small chamfer on the top inside edge of each turret, to allow the secondary springs to be inserted or removed once the sideframe has been glued in place.

It is at this point that you may wish to postpone the following operations to the end of the build, after you have the loco running.

Heljan have provided no brake shoes or hangers on the sideframe mouldings. Even when looking at the real locos, they are virtually invisible from most viewpoints. However, when we prepared our test build, there seemed to be something missing and so we have included representations of the brake gear on the production etch. On fitting, given that we have had to allow extra clearances between shoe and tread for the model, they have indeed proved still to be virtually invisible. We suggest that they are, at the very least, optional. You can leave them until the very end of your build, and make up your own mind: assembly instructions follow here.

Inside brake bits Remove the brake components (8) from the fret.

Make the 180° folds, with the etched fold lines on the outside, at the top and bottom of the inside hangers…

Outside brake bits …and at the bottom ONLY (the extended tag) of the outside hangers.

Brake bits with mounting spigots Solder 0.35mm wire through the holes in the folded-over parts. Trim the wire to 0.5mm projection on the outer face (viewed on this face you can see the half etched outline of the brake shoe), flush with the inner face.

Chemically blacken the components, if desired.

Marking out using template Using the template printed on the kit's card insert to mark out, drill 0.35mm, on the inside face of each moulded sideframe, six location holes, about 1mm deep, for the brake components.

Inside brake bits fitted Fit the inside brakes in place and secure with contact adhesive (which way up do they go? - you can just discern that the brake shoe is slightly nearer the top of the hanger than the bottom).

DON'T MISS THE NEXT INSTRUCTION - EVEN IF YOU'RE NOT FITTING THE BRAKE BITS…

Apply contact adhesive to the outer faces of the bogie stretchers and the inside faces of the ends of the sideframe mouldings. When ready, fit the sideframe mouldings onto their outriggers, check alignments in all directions, clearances to wheels, and press the glued joints home.

Outside brake bits fitted Apply contact adhesive to the outer faces of top and bottom of the outside brakes, and then to the corresponding points on the inside faces of the bogie stretchers and the pull rods on the sideframe mouldings. Glue the outside brake details in place.